Thin stone veneer over rigid foam
Last Post 04 Mar 2012 09:13 AM by ICFcoatings. 33 Replies.
Printer Friendly
Sort:
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 2 of 2 << < 12
Author Messages
methierUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:9

--
23 Jan 2011 03:00 PM
Talked to installers of thin stone veneer and distributor. Here's the conclusion:
-- adding the 2 inches of XPS foam really complicates the installation. Cannot use the brick ledge for this type (thin stone veneer) of installation. Also can't rely on the screws through the foam. The 2" overhang would cause the screws to bend (or they would have to be monster screws).

So here's the solution that I came up with. Construction will be starting in the Spring.
Basically, the solution is to add an extra layer of plywood, so the layers from inside to outside will be:
- 1/2" drywall
- vapor barrier
- R-20 spray foam within 2x6 studs
- 1/2" plywood
- R-10 XPS FOAM (2"). Not sure if the foam should be glued or screwed.
- 5/8" plywood, screwed through the foam and into the 2x6 framing studs
- house wrap (typar)
- driwall 10mm rainscreen
- metal lath screwed into the 5/8" plywood
- scratch coat
- thin natural stone veneer

From my perspective, this ends up being a straight forward installation of thin stone veneer on top of the 5/8" plywood. So the only extra complication of adding the foam is the need to add an extra layer.

Anybody see a problem with this approach?
AltonUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:2157

--
23 Jan 2011 03:05 PM
It might be simpler to use insulated roof decking instead of two layers of plywood.  Only one installation trip around the building with the foam board already attached to the OSB/plywood.  Just make sure the code inspector agrees that this will be sufficient bracing since the bonded foam will be up against the studs.
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
23 Jan 2011 03:16 PM
make life simple and just use SIPs
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
ecoarchitectUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:29

--
25 Jan 2011 12:02 PM
this assembly sounds just fine.
ecoarchitectUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:29

--
25 Jan 2011 12:06 PM
also remember to consider some expansion or control joints in that outer layer of sheathing if you
have an extremely long run of stone material. some consideration for expansion should be allowed
as with other masonry. I would recommend not going beyong 20 feet in horizontal length without
a control joint. Likewise over a certain height the thin stone veneer should not be completely
monolithic.

Sven Erik Alstrom AIA
ECOLOGICAL ARCHITECTURE P.A.
www.ecologicalarch.com
eerkelUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:9

--
14 Feb 2011 07:03 AM
Sorry to revive this old thread. I'm having to address similar questions as the OP (traditional 3-course stucco over 1" of XPS, so not as difficult).

My question is: doesn't putting hundreds of holes into the envelope (by screwing through the XPS, wrap, and sheathing), to attach the wire lath, cause water penetration issues? Is there a method to mitigate this?
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
14 Feb 2011 07:33 AM
Posted By eerkel on 14 Feb 2011 07:03 AM
Sorry to revive this old thread. I'm having to address similar questions as the OP (traditional 3-course stucco over 1" of XPS, so not as difficult).

My question is: doesn't putting hundreds of holes into the envelope (by screwing through the XPS, wrap, and sheathing), to attach the wire lath, cause water penetration issues? Is there a method to mitigate this?

eerkel;

the short answer is no

consider a roofing application that typically has a plywood deck covered with 15# felt held down with hundreds of fasteners, then coverd with shingles held fastened with thouands of roofing nails .........all penetrating the shingles, felt and plywood.

With all those penetrations there are no water penetration issues on a properly installed roof, a wall constructed as you propose is much less susceptible to water penetration when properly installed. Window and door flashings should be the bigger concern
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
eerkelUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:9

--
14 Feb 2011 10:20 AM
@cmkavala - Good comparison. Thanks for responding!
mnelson61User is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:19

--
20 Jan 2012 05:27 PM
It's probably too late for this advice but it sounds like you need this product: www.suretouch.ca

The fruit of many years of research, the SURETOUCH cladding system offers concrete advantages, in addition to all the benefits of stone and brick. Besides enhancing your home’s visual appeal, SURETOUCH adds considerable heat and sound insulation, all at a very reasonable price. SURETOUCH offers you a choice of four Collections: two natural-look concrete stone, one clay brick and one concrete brick. The system is ideal for both new construction and renovation projects.

greentreeUser is Offline
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Send Private Message
Posts:587

--
07 Feb 2012 05:54 PM
Posted By eerkel on 14 Feb 2011 10:20 AM
@cmkavala - Good comparison. Thanks for responding!

Not so sure. Yes roofs have thousands of fasteners but they are hidden by the hanging shingle to flash the fastener. Lath has nothing to flash your fastener penetration other then the cladding assembly which can hold water, no?
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
07 Feb 2012 09:04 PM
Posted By greentree on 07 Feb 2012 05:54 PM
Posted By eerkel on 14 Feb 2011 10:20 AM
@cmkavala - Good comparison. Thanks for responding!

Not so sure. Yes roofs have thousands of fasteners but they are hidden by the hanging shingle to flash the fastener. Lath has nothing to flash your fastener penetration other then the cladding assembly which can hold water, no?



Greentree;
you are correct the answer is no....... lath is installed vertical, not on a slope. Water is not "held" vertally, it flows out along the felt or drainage plane behind the lath to weep holes(weep screed) below. The felt is the flash
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
ilgeoUser is Offline
Basic Member
Basic Member
Send Private Message
Posts:180

--
17 Feb 2012 12:28 PM
Chris,
In traditional plaster is the felt alone the drainage plane or is there an air space required?
cmkavalaUser is Offline
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Send Private Message
Posts:4324
Avatar

--
17 Feb 2012 01:20 PM
ilgeo; the felt is the moisture barrier, when the cement plaster is troweled into the wire mesh it does not completely fill in between the mesh/felt. It is "honeycombed" , this will create a natural drainage plane or slight void to allow water to drain to the bottom.
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
ICFcoatingsUser is Offline
New Member
New Member
Send Private Message
Posts:61
Avatar

--
04 Mar 2012 09:13 AM
you might want to look at StuccoMax instead, easier to apply, can be stamped . StuccoMax™ is a revolutionary one coat impact resistant stucco product for use on many exterior substrates and is ideal as a final finish for ICF buildings or SIPS or over conventional construction where ordinary stucco may be applied. StuccoMax™ may be applied in one coat and may be colored through the addition of stucco oxide powders or left in natural gray color. This unique material offers a perfect one coat smooth finish difficult to duplicate using conventional stuccos. Based on local building codes and ICF manufacturer requirements, StuccoMax™ may be applied directly over ICF forms, reducing installation times and costs compared to typical multi-coat stuccos. ICF Contractors will be able to offer single day applications as a preblended ready for mixing with water at the job site and is applied by conventional stucco sprayers or hand trowel. It can be left natural or painted after 48 hours. Costs less installed than traditional stucco. for more info see www.barrett-inc.com/stuccomax.php
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 2 of 2 << < 12


Active Forums 4.1
Membership Membership: Latest New User Latest: hudson2000 New Today New Today: 0 New Yesterday New Yesterday: 2 User Count Overall: 34707
People Online People Online: Visitors Visitors: 105 Members Members: 0 Total Total: 105
Copyright 2011 by BuildCentral, Inc.   Terms Of Use  Privacy Statement