Hello,

I have read through two other posts on this topic and researched products mentioned but I'm still not finding exactly what I am looking for, if it exists. 

My husband is siding our home with Hardiplank (and Hardiboard below the skirtboard--basement level), and the ICF contractor wrapped below grade in self-adhesive Soprema.  The Soprema sticks up above-grade some (partially because we still have about a foot of backfill to do), and, as it's been exposed to the elements for a while, it's starting to peel off.  This is making my husband wary of using Transition Wrap as is it also a peel and stick product.  Will it really hold up to our wet Washington weather?  It seems the other main option is the trowel-on products (this is what the distributor recommended) but my husband really doesn't like the idea of those for a) the labor involved (especially for someone who has never worked with anything like it before) and b) concern for durabilty. 

What he really wants is something rigid, a panel or board-type product that he can nail or screw in just like the Hardi, but of course, approve for ground contact.

He says he wishes he knew of a good alternative to the old asbestos board, and has also considered using treated wood, but since at this point our home is a DIY project, he just doesn't have the expertise to really know what to do or what else might be available.  The salepeople at all the home stores and lumber yards are no help -- they just give him a puzzled look.  Some of them still don't even know what ICF's are!

So, has anyone used something other than an adhesive wrap or a trowel-on product?  Any ideas for a ground-contact approved replacement for asbestos board?  Is treated wood a good or bad idea?

If we have no other choices than those I already listed (wrap or stucco), we will porbably use the wrap.  Should we cut the Soprema back rather than overlap it?  Overapping two stick-on products doesn't seem like a good idea to me. 

Oh, we are located in western Washington State; I don't believe termites are an issue here.  Rain and moisture are our biggest concerns.

Thanks in advance for your expertise, as well as your patience with the wife of a newbie!

I realized when I said "trowel-on product" what I really meant was parging (I think!).

A couple of ideas. Go to this URL to see how I did it.

http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/aff/4/aft/44303/afv/topic/Default.aspx

I did use a parging material but sprayed it on instead of troweling. A drywall coating sprayer costs only about $60 or so and is not particularly difficult to use. So far, two + years later, it is holding up pretty good. The only thing I would change is to overlap the dimple board about 4" or more instead of just 2" to 3". Since you're using a peel and stick membrane I'd use 1/2" foam board and just overlap the membrane. The dimple membrane I used had an effective thickness of about 3/8" hence the need to cut a rabbet in the foam board where it overlaps the membrane. I ordered the Tuff-II through Lowes.

Another idea which an ICF builder told me over the phone he does. He uses Hardiboard and runs it down into the ground several inches. Note of course that James Hardie does not condone using their product in ground contact, and any Hardi material in ground contact will not be warranted. But if you have a good clear gap between the siding and the Hardieboard you shouldn't have any problems. He said the Hardi will hold up quite well for some time in ground contact. You might have a paint adherence problem with the Hardi close to the ground because of some moisture wicking.

Magnum Board MgO board may be an alternative for you, it appears to be completely unaffected by water. I have had a piece of it outside since Oct. buried in the mud. Looks unaffected. Magnum Board is also making a lap siding that is better than Hardi-Plank.