Here are some pictures of the windows on the ICF house we are building.

Beautiful. Looks classy. And the sills are?

Thanks, I'm happy with how they turned out

The sills are concrete. We cast them in a mould just like a countertop place some steel strapping in them and then lock them in place with the trim

Can you outline the steps you took to achieve this look? For example after the pour and the bucks were removed, did you strip the ICF foam to get the corner setback look? How were the windows installed, i.e., any extra steps beyond the normal install?

The bucks wern't removed after the pour, I oversized the RO three inches in both width and height. Then I added 2x6 inside the 2x12s to the interior. I nailed the window flange to the 2x6. After waterproofing, I extended the exterior jambs with 1x6 redwood and cased the window.

ECO,
I am interested in how the inside of the windows were finished out, especially the sills.
Do you, by chance, have any photos or drawings you could share?
By the way, the outside looks really, really good.

Thanks Wes,

I ordered the windows from Marvin with the jambs sized for a 2x6 wall. Since the windows are set to the 2x6 shadoe buck I'll just case the inside with wood trim.

Very nice and smart. How did you waterproof the area between the concrete sill and the bottom of the window. Isn't that wood to concrete contact? Also how did you waterproof the window flange on the 2 by 6 interior bucks? I think that covers it all now. I may use your system thanks. I was going to wrap the stucco to the interior and grout the windows in place (with the flanges removed) to set them toward the interior of the block. thanks again K52

wow that looks great! So you completely framed the corner on top of concrete as a post and then just framed headers or is the post poured concrete not wood? Also do you have any problem securing the shakes to ICF or did you sheet the walls with something first (OSB, plywood)?

Thanks, I used PT lumber wherever it touched concrete, I made a copper sill pan to go under the concrete sill, I first flashed the openings with Tyvek then installed the windows, then used peel 'n stick to cover the window flanges and stick them to the Tyvek. I didn't want a large column in the corners so we engineered 4" sq. tube steel columns with buckets welded to the top to accept the hip beam and window headers. I then wrapped the steel in wood. Joey

The shingles are a panel made by Premier Forest Products, Its made from 8' strips of finger jointed cedar lap siding with shingles glued to the front.

Do you have any overall shots of the exterior of this house? Curious to see the look of the deepset windows in full.

Great project!  What is the siding, real cedar or something else it looks great.  Did you have to sheath with osb?  We did a project with the same look real cedar singles and had to sheath it.  Avoiding that step would have saved alot. 

Wow, outstanding work. Those beams above the window, how are they mounted? I was going to go with knee braces but that looks way better. Thanks, Sean

jboy, I'll find a picture of the house and post it soon.

vermont, the siding is real cedar shingles on a backer, the weatherproofing is done by the backer which is basically lap siding with an air space behind it, the shingles are glued on the backer for asthetics and protection. It comes in strips 1 row high and 8 feet wide. I didn't plywood the exterior of the house, just 6 inches at the corners.

sgo, I used simpson concealed flange hangers tapconned into the concrete jambs, I removed the foam on the inside at the top of the window and formed with plywood so I would have concrete around the tapcons, I then nailed a simpson strap tie across the PSL header and into the sill plate to keep it from separating. In this case the sill plate was a PT 6x6 ripped in half with a roof pitch of 4in12 on the top (the plate is only as wide as the concrete in the wall. The corner posts i had fabricated by a local welder from some drawings my engineer made.



Thanks for the posts,
Joey

Is the roof a sip?