First let me say i know nothing about windows other than they have glass in them :) We just bought a home built in the mid 70's and the frst thing on our list is better windows. The home currently has single pane casements in it and we would like to retain casement style in the replacements. Anyhow a couple questions. What brands do i look for and what type of construction is best for the money spent? What type of coating do i want on the windows? FYI there are no south facing windows in the home all are on the west, east and most on the north side of the home. I plan to do the install myself so how is the best way to buy them without paying to much, local store, big box store, online maybe? Not sure what else to ask so please feel free to help me along! Thanks


Here are the window sizes in the home now for reference:

Windows east front: 64X48 (2)
north main: 64X48 (2)
west family room: 64X48
master bath: 51X24
north upstairs: 51X62 (2)
east/west upstairs: 40X48 (2)
laundry room: 40X48
south bedroom(on porch): 52X48
north/south sunroom: 24X64 (2)
west sunroom: 24X64 (3)

Where is the home located (state, city)?

Are you sure you can handle a DIY window replacement?



Here are some links on window technology:

DOE Window Guide

Energy Star Window Info

Posted By Lbear on 05 Jul 2012 03:09 AM
Where is the home located (state, city)?

Are you sure you can handle a DIY window replacement?



Here are some links on window technology:

DOE Window Guide

Energy Star Window Info

It is located in Hays KS zip code 67601. Yes i can handle replacing them no problem, i do have some experience with building garages etc i just dont know anything about choosing a good window. Thanks

1. Determine whether you want "replacement" windows or not.
2. Determine whether you want vinyl windows or not.
"replacement windows" - of which vinyl is the most common & least expensive are installed inside the existing jamb, so the new windows are smaller than the old ones and are typically caulked in place. (They are made to fit the openings.)

The better but much more involved option is to remove the whole window - jamb and all and replace with new windows. This may involve replacing the interior and exterior casings and may involve siding repair. It also allows you to reflash the windows to insure they don't leak and reinsulate around the window. Old windows are often not insulated and not flashed well - and neither problem is addressed with replacement windows.

If you go with replacing the whole window, vinyl is still the least expensive and the cost often reflects the quality - you get what you pay for. There are few "national brands" of vinyl so they are difficulty to compare until you've owned them for several years. In National brands, the best (IMO) is Marvin Integrity - which is a moderately priced fiberglass window, available through local lumber yards. Retail price varies depending on how many they sell over the year, so shop around. Fiberglass lasts virtually forever (unlike vinyl for instance) so it is a better long term investment. Andersen 400 series are also good windows at the same price level as Integrity's.

Andersen and Marvin Integrity also make replacement windows if you choose to leave the old jambs in place and either are a better long term investment than vinyl. Shop at local lumber yards - they have long term employees who are familiar wit the brands they sell, can help you all the way through your project and will help you with the order. Buying custom windows from the guys at HD is a cr..shoot and can end in disaster if what you get isn't what you wanted. Those places are good for selling what they have on the shelf - think of them as 2x4 convenience stores - but it is often the same or more expensive than at real building supply stores.

Also, any window you buy should be double glazed with Low-E coatings and have a U-value of .30 or less. They may also have a gas filling; typically Argon or Krypton. The windows are shipped with a sticker which lists the U value; the salesperson will be able to tell you what it is when you are shopping. Make sure you write out your order listing the brand and model plus the size, type (casement), U value, Low E coating, hinging (which way will it open), exterior color, type and color of hardware, color of screen and any other special instructions. When the salesman hands you the order be certain that all your specs are clearly listed; if not have them added.

On the E and W facing windows it's important to compare the solar heating gain coefficient(SHGC) numbers, not just U-factors, and lower SHGC is preferred at any given U-value. (Of course lower U is also important.)

On the north side you can ignore SHGC and focus on U-factor.

Air leakage also counts, but casements are in general pretty low. When all else is equal, go with the lower-leakage.

Hays KS is near the warm edge ofUS climate zone 5/cold edge of zone 4, so long term it's going to be cost effective to go with a ~U0.28 window or lower, which is attainable be a low-E gas-filled double-pane approach.

Since you're doing the installation yourself, get serious about flashing it correctly, and use a low-expansion foam to air-seal between the window & framing, don't just stuff it full of fiberglass. (You can get a foam gun for under $50 via internet stores, as well as the screw-on type cans of the appropriate"Windows & doors" type foam.)